Friday, April 19, 2024

Portugal, a hymn to diversity

Revista de Vinhos

Who would have thought that a country with the geographical size of Portugal could have so many ‘terroirs’ for the production of great wines? A multiplicity of soils and sun exposure, of maritime and continental profiles, faced with challenging factors such as mountain viticulture or the combination of hundreds of native grape varieties. The world is discovering them and what about you, dear reader, have you engaged already in this discovery?

Revista de Vinhos is the leading wine magazine in Portugal and recently selected “The Best of the Year 2020” in wine and gastronomy. And it shares here an article that highlights some of the major qualities attributes of Portugal in the wine sector, along with a selection of ten truly irresistible proposals.

We grew accustomed to hearing that one day we would be in the top mind of global critics and that it would not take long until we would be discovered. What the hell, we of all people, the oldest nation in Europe, where vine and wine culture is even older, we are still waiting in line…

The truth is that Portugal’s time in the world of wine seems to have finally come. The top international experts praise our wines and those who closely follow the benchmark projects and see new protagonists appear do realize that this kind of positive revolution is daily, permanent and there is no turning back.

The adventures of a new generation of winegrowers and oenologists, which strongly emerged in the mid-1990s and early 2000s, were key to this impulse. Aside from the knowledge they have gathered, this generation travelled and experienced other realities, engaging often in grape harvesting, in some of the most distant regions or most famous regions in the world. And upon each return, they brought something new.

A new generation followed, equally brilliant but with an additional need to experiment, often reviving the art and craft of the past to show what the present or even the future might hold. From this permanent dialogue, a continuous trial/error process and increased energy for Portuguese wine emerged, and today goes incredibly farther and stronger when it comes to making themselves known in the world.

We have great fortified wines (Port Wine, Madeira Wine, Muscatel and Carcavelos), but also great sparkling wines, both wine and red. We have more than 250 native varieties that represent a true hymn to diversity and Atlantic regions and other, of both continental and Mediterranean profile. We have mountain and precision viticulture, amphora wine and signature wine cellars, wines of immediate appeal and many others, with a remarkable storage capacity – it is worth mentioning that few producing countries can pride themselves on having wines with such a good ageing capacity. And above all, we have an incredibly dynamic sector, committed to spreading the quality of what we do across different foreign markets.

The editors of Essência do Vinho, Nuno Botelho and Nuno Pires, with the winners of the “Tribute Prize” awared by Revista de Vinhos – António and Roberto Guedes, from Aveleda.

In a very difficult year like 2020, Portuguese wine exports grew by 5.3% in volume (3.2 ML) and 3.2% in value (€ 846 million). Third markets (including the United Kingdom now) witnessed increases of 23.6% in volume, 25.5% in value and 1.5% in the average price per litre. Exports to non-EU markets had positive performances, particularly in Brazil, with increases in volume (26.5%) and value (23.5%). The target of reaching € 1 billion of exports in 2023/2024 remains.

In the short term, with the expected return to relative normality, these figures will certainly help the positive growth curve go up, not least because Portugal’s international projection also benefits wine and vice versa.

In Portugal, Revista de Vinhos reports on the sector’s evolution every month, sharing news, vertical tasting, stories, interviews and food and wine harmonisations with its readers. In Brazil, GULA magazine returned to the newsstands, bringing wine and gastronomy back to the spotlight. Every day, on our social media and information portals, news are shared with our followers. Magazines held by Essência do Vinho, such as Revista de Vinhos and GULA, stand out as the main group specialized in communication and dissemination of wine and gastronomy from Portuguese-speaking countries.

10 Wines of Excellence 

Recently, in the scope of the “Best of the Year 2020” awards in wine and gastronomy, Revista de Vinhos selected the “TOP 30 Excellence”, a restricted selection of some of the current best Portuguese wines, which marked yet another intense year of tasting thousands of references. An eclectic selection of 10 of these wines followed, representing different regions and of an even greater multiplicity of styles and approaches.

BARBEITO VERDELHO
50 YEARS – ANNIVERSARY

Madeira Wine | Fortified | 560,00 €
Producer:: Barbeito Vinhos
Oenology: Nuno Duarte and Ricardo Diogo Freitas

Pungent aromas of caramel, iodine and several toasted aromas, plus ginger, marmalade and slight hints of citrus that result in a refreshing wine. Firm and intense, young and irreverent, very fresh and lively, this is a young wine that improves with time. The ending is unsuitable for people with a faint heart… endless!

CASA DA PASSARELLA
HARVEST 2009

Dão | Red | 195,00€
Producer: O Abrigo da Passarella
Oenologist: Paulo Nunes

Notes of Indian ink, pine resin, pine needles, berries, forest floor remains. Balsamic and meaty complements. Delicate and very fresh tannin, markedly mineral structure, thin volume and whose taste emerges in layers and with a long-lasting finish. It was not by chance that it was elected “Wine of the Year 2020” by Revista de Vinhos.

CHÃO DOS EREMITAS TINTA
CARVALHA VINHAS VELHAS 2018

Regional Alentejano | Red | 35,00€
Producer: Fita Preta Vinhos
Oenology: António Maçanita and Sandra Sárria

Of light and soft colour, aromas of fresh red fruit, strawberries, blueberry, spicy note and floral touch. Dry in the mouth, with an acid hint, mild alcohol, and juicy tannin, dense, bulky, spicy and well balanced. Persistent and electrifying finish. Given its boldness and the manner how it has been able to stand out, Fita Preta Vinhos was elected “Producer of the Year 2020” by Revista de Vinhos.

FERNANDO SOARES FRANCO 2015

Regional Península de Setúbal | Red | 34,99€
Producer: José Maria da Fonseca
Oenology: Domingos Soares Franco

On the nose coffee, dry leaf, some tomato leaf, gooseberry and balsamic from good barrels. Precise, fresh and firm tannin, huge acidity, vigorous structure. The end is deep and long, with a hint of bush notes. It has many years to keep evolving. Domingos Soares Franco, “Personality of the Year 2020 in Wine” by Revista de Vinhos, makes this wine a fair tribute to his father, Fernando Soares Franco.

PICO ISLAND TERRANTE VOLCANIC
TERRANTEZ DO PICO 2019

Pico – The Azores | White | 30,00€
Producer: Coop. Pico Island Winemaking
Oenology: Bernardo Cabral

Nectarine nose, plus lychee, some molasses, white pepper and smoke. It’s a powerful wine and it has a firm but tamed acidity and finishes with a note of kerosene and dehydrated fruit. Its shows its subtleties when left to sit in the glass, it has an elegant touch and its main features are close to that of a Riesling. It’s a great white wine, from a cooperative celebrating 70 years.

MISSÃO BAGA PRÉ-PHILLOXERA 2016

Bairrada | Red | 150,00€
Producer: Filipa Pato & William Wouters
Oenology: Filipa Pato

Obtained from a vineyard considered by Filipa Pato, elected “Winemaker of the Year 2020” by Revista de Vinhos, “a living museum”. The nose points to somewhat vegetable scents, berries, pine resin, bush and Indian ink. Very firm tannin, imperial and elegant structure. It ends with a fresh and endless fashion! It’s here to stay for many years, as it is currently one of the best Baga.

PROTAGONISTA 2013

Tejo | Red | 45,00€
Producer: Pinhal da Torre
Oenology: Mário Andrade

Alicante Bouschet, Touriga Franca and Syrah blends – wine with floral tones, tomato leaf, and black cherry, slightly toasted and with coffee notes. Well-proportioned and rough tannin, acidity that supports the volume, long finish, tense, fresher and more balsamic. It is evolving very well and shows the full potential of a region like the Tagus region.

QUINTA DA GAIVOSA 2017

Douro | Red | 39,00€
Producer: Alves de Sousa
Oenology: Domingos and Tiago Alves de Sousa

Floral, Indian ink, blueberry, blackberry, dry vegetable, fine and integrated spices notes. Silky and detailed tannin, with structural balance based on good acidity and elegance, with a deep and delicate finish. It’s as if it was walking with a silk cloak, with such grace that makes it one of the best Baixo Corgo wines, thus staying true to the wines produced by the Alves de Sousa family.

QUINTA SAN MICHEL
ARINTO 2017

Regional Lisboa | White | 24,00 €
Producer: Quinta San Michel
Oenology: Alexandre Guedes

Wine with enveloping aromas, where the freshness and salinity of the region stand out, the herbal notes and the balanced touch of wood. Dry flavour, acidity that is clearly there, saline and tree fruit notes. Full-bodied, silky, integrated wood and with an intense and desirable finish. A good omen for Joaquim Camilo and for what he can achieve with his production in the heart of the Sintra Mountains.

SOU QUINTA DE SANTIAGO &
MIRA DO Ó 2018

Vinho Verde (Monção and Melgaço) | White | 32,00 €
Producer: Nenúfar Real
Oenology: Nuno Mira do Ó

Joana Santiago and Nuno Mira do Ó have manages to produce a quite peculiar Alvarinho, which fermented spontaneously. The aromatic touch is restrained and fine: grass, green apple, lemon, lime zest, grapefruit, chipped stone and smoke. Fine acidity, generous size and slightly grained. Austere, persistent and deep finish.

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